How do I know my radon system has failed?

Check the gauge on the visible pipe, either a U-tube manometer or a digital readout. If it reads at or near zero, or outside the range it normally sits at, the system likely lost suction. A fan that has gone silent or sounds noticeably different is another common warning sign.

Can you repair a system that another company installed?

Yes, we regularly diagnose and repair systems we did not originally install, including systems left behind by a previous homeowner with no documentation. We map the existing layout and identify the fan model before recommending repairs.

Is it the fan or something else if my gauge shows no suction?

It could be either. A dead fan is one possibility, but a cracked pipe, separated joint, or failed seal at the suction pit can also cause a zero reading even with a functioning fan. Diagnosis starts with a manometer check to isolate where suction is being lost.

How long can a radon fan run before it needs repair?

Radon fans commonly run for a good number of years under continuous duty, but exact lifespan varies with fan model, mounting location and exposure to weather for exterior units. Rather than relying on an age estimate, we recommend watching the gauge and addressing issues as they appear.

Do I need to retest after a repair?

Yes, we recommend a follow-up test after any repair that restored lost suction, since indoor radon levels may have risen while the system was not functioning properly. This confirms the repair actually brought levels back down rather than assuming it did based on the gauge alone.

Is a noisy radon fan something I should get looked at?

Yes, a fan that has become noticeably louder, developed a rattle, or changed pitch is often signaling bearing wear or a developing motor problem, and addressing it before complete failure can sometimes avoid a longer period without proper suction.

Radon System Repair Indianapolis

Radon System Repair

An existing radon system only protects a home while it is actually functioning correctly. We diagnose and repair fan failures, cracked or disconnected piping, damaged sealant, and gauge readings that no longer make sense on systems in Indianapolis homes, regardless of who originally installed them.

Common Signs a System Needs Repair

The most obvious sign is a gauge, whether a U-tube manometer or a digital indicator, reading outside its normal range or showing no suction at all, which usually means the fan has stopped running or a pipe connection has failed. A fan that has gone quiet, one that suddenly sounds louder or different than usual, or visible cracks and separated joints in exterior PVC piping are all reasons to schedule a diagnostic visit rather than waiting for the next retest to reveal a problem.

Homeowners sometimes only discover a failed system when a radon retest, often triggered by a home sale or a routine long-term test, comes back unexpectedly high years after a system was installed and working fine. This is why we recommend checking the gauge periodically rather than assuming a system installed years ago is still functioning.

Diagnosing the Failure

We start with the gauge and a manometer check at the suction pipe to confirm whether the fan is actually creating suction, then work backward through the system: checking the fan for continuity and proper operation, inspecting accessible piping for cracks, separated couplings, or condensation buildup that has restricted airflow, and checking the suction pit seal at the slab for a failed pipe boot or degraded sealant.

Exterior-mounted fans are especially exposed to temperature swings and UV exposure over the years, which can cause housing cracks or motor bearing wear that eventually leads to failure. Attic-mounted fans are more protected from weather but can suffer from condensation issues if the fan was installed at an incorrect angle, since standing water inside the housing accelerates motor failure.

Manometer check to confirm actual suction at the pipe
Fan motor inspection for continuity, noise, and physical damage
Pipe and joint inspection for cracks or separated couplings
Slab and crawl space seal inspection at the suction point

Sealed radon suction riser and U-tube manometer in an unfinished poured concrete basement

Repairing Piping and Seal Failures

Cracked or separated PVC sections are cut out and replaced with properly primed and cemented fittings, and any exterior runs damaged by impact, ladder contact, or age are reinforced or rerouted if the original path proved vulnerable. A failed pipe boot or degraded sealant at the slab penetration is stripped and resealed with fresh polyurethane sealant to restore an airtight connection at the suction pit.

In crawl space systems, membrane tears or seams that have separated from foundation walls over time are a common source of lost suction, and we patch or reseal the membrane rather than simply replacing the fan when the underlying problem is actually a compromised vapor barrier.

When the Problem Isn't the Fan

It is common for a homeowner to assume a silent gauge means a dead fan, when the actual cause is a disconnected pipe joint or a failed slab seal upstream of a fan that is still spinning fine. Diagnosing the actual point of failure, rather than reflexively replacing the fan, saves unnecessary cost and gets the system working correctly the first time.

Repairs on Systems We Did Not Originally Install

We regularly service radon systems installed by other contractors, including systems the current homeowner inherited from a previous owner with no documentation of the original design. In these cases we first map out the existing system, confirm suction pit locations and pipe routing, and identify the fan model before proposing repairs, since replacement parts and repair approaches vary between fan manufacturers.

Inline radon exhaust fan mounted on exterior PVC piping at a Central Indiana home in winter

Retesting After Repair

Once a repair is complete and the system is confirmed to be creating proper suction again, we recommend a follow-up radon test to verify indoor levels have returned to the range the system originally achieved. This is especially important if the system was down for an extended period before the failure was noticed, since indoor radon levels can climb back toward pre-mitigation levels during that time.